Wednesday, August 09, 2006

Belgrade: the safest big city (that I've lived in)

When we first moved to Belgrade, we asked the locals to tell us where the unsafe areas of the city were so that we could be sure to stay away. Everyone told us the same thing, "Well, there really aren't any unsafe areas." Coming from Washington DC, we found this hard to believe, so we probed for neighborhoods and streets where one shouldn't walk at night or a woman shouldn't walk alone. We received the same answer, "Well, there really isn't any place where you can't walk at night or shouldn't walk alone."

Now that we have lived here for almost a year, I think I can safely say that they were absolutely right! I have yet to find a neighborhood where I have felt unsafe walking at any time of day. Belgrade is an amazingly safe city!

(Reassurance for Dad: don't worry, I still follow all the rules for staying safe in a big city and I always will because you just never know).

I'm not naive, I know crime exists, and always will, no matter how hard you try to stop it. But I think Belgraders should be proud of just how safe their city is. I have lived in other large cities such as Washington DC, Boston and London but I think the safest I have felt is right here in Belgrade. In those other cities I was constantly aware of sketchy people staring at me or following me and I used my avoidance tactics more than once (look them straight in the eye so that they know that you see them and walking into crowded, well-lit areas if you are feeling uncomfortable). However, I have not once felt the need to use such tactics here. On the contrary, I get the impression that some people think I'm a sketch-ball because I refuse to make eye contact and always walk directly and with purpose (especially when I'm alone).

Not to mention, when I lived and worked in downtown Washington DC and London, the possibility of a terrorist bomb on the subway, a biological weapon being used in my office or whatever else the terrorists had planned was always on my mind. It's quite a relief to live in a city that isn't a terrorist target.

I'm not sure if the people of Belgrade realize that their city is so much safer than most other cities in Europe, but this fact definitely deserves to be on the list of "hidden gems" in Serbia.

(I really hope I didn't just jinx myself by posting this....*knock wood*)

14 Comments:

At 4:31 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Bravo Brooke! But then again, you just never know--'dont push your luck' :))) but overall I would agree with you that Belgrade is perhaps one of the safe cities in the world (although inter.media made it sound so horrible).Belgrade was even more safe before the war (obviously)but considering the situation that happened to us and how people become in those situations, I think we are doing pretty well. Good luck to you! PS.How safe was Buenos Aires??

 
At 7:27 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Many of us who live in big cities of the US are hesitant to walk the streets at night. Kudos to Belgrade for "meriting" the distinction of being a safe city at all hours of the day. Thanks for sharing this insight with us. -atk

 
At 1:42 AM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

It's true, I was reading your post and trying to think of a dangerous neighbourhood but no, there isn't any. Except of course anywhere in the middle of the day if you happen to be a prime minister. Gosh, it would be funny if it weren't tragic.

 
At 3:48 AM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Brooke, do you go to Kosutnjak park ever? ski staza coffee shop/bar? There is this one famous restaurant on Kosutnjak and they have great BBQ. You would like it there. Nice nature and the most amazing view of the city. Cheers!

 
At 6:52 AM, Blogger Marko said...

I agree. For a city of its size Belgrade is remarkably safe. As a Belgrader I honestly can’t think of a part of town where it would be unsafe to go, or even walk at night. Off course something can always happen, crime does exist, but I think being attacked on the street is an exception rather than a rule, no matter what part of town you’re in.
The worst thing that ever happened to me was that someone broke into my basement and stole my bike.
At some point during the 90s you could easily get mugged even in places like Dorcol. How that changed I’m not sure. Guess that crime is now concentrated in higher circles of the hierarchy.

 
At 11:20 AM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Hi Brooke,

I just came back from a trip to BG, hadn't visited in 12 years. It's nice to read your blog, makes me feel close to the city I've always loved most. Thanks for your insight.

- Gordana

 
At 4:04 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Dear Brooke,

It's so good to hear some positive observations from Belgrade. It's always been a rather safe place and surprisingly so, even late at night.
I'm sure all of you here heard about the great scare here at Heathrow today -- I'm supposed to travel soon, departing from H. and it really makes me nervous.

Enjoy the peacful summer in BG...

Considering recent Balkan history, I suppose it's rather sobering for the the people living in fear of bombings in Britain and the US. Perhaps it will enable them to have a clearer idea of what the Serbs have been through.

best,

Milica

 
At 4:39 PM, Blogger Jonathan Davis said...

Dear Brooke,

Get in touch with some fellow expatriate consultants living here in Belgrade.

http://www.combatconsultancy.com or by mail limbic11 AT hotmail DOT com

Looking forward to hearing from you.

Jonathan

 
At 4:51 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Hey Brooke - nice to read some more about other people's experiences of living in Belgrade as a foreigner :)

Would be very interested in what you think about a travelogue I've written over my last three years here:

BELGRADE: EUROPE'S BEST-KEPT SECRET

http://blog.myspace.com/shurford

 
At 8:48 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

I disagree steve.
;)

http://www.visit-montenegro.com/

 
At 1:46 AM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

I agree Steve :)
hm not sure about monte..
Go BeLgRaDe!!

 
At 4:54 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

I'm always disagree-ing here, and I'm so sorry.

I love Serbia and Belgrade, I haven't spent much time in Belgrade so I really shouldn't have disagreed.

I've spent a lot of time in Montenegro, that's why I posted the link... for any and all interested.

But I am Serbian and do love to visit when I can.

 
At 9:28 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

I agree with you, Bella, that Montenegro is a breathtakingly beautiful place. But Belgrade is also wonderful. Just depends on what you're looking for at the time.

 
At 2:20 PM, Blogger Bora Zivkovic said...

I wouldn't stroll through dark parts of Kalemegdan at night - you may get offered to buy a brick (ask the locals what that means).

Otherwise, it was (and apparently still is) a remarkably safe city. There were something like two murders per year, enough for the whole carshija to talk about for six month about each.

My parents had never had as problem with me going out to parties and walking home accross town (e.g., from Zemun to St.Sava hram) on foot at 3am, even when I was a kid.

I have not visited since 1995, but I hooe I manage to get there soon.

 

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